AHA/BHA in polar climates needs extra care

Yes, using AHA/BHA acids in extremely cold dry climates increases your risk of irritation, redness, and a damaged moisture barrier — but you can make it work with some adjustments.

The main issue is that cold air holds almost no moisture, and indoor heating dries things out further. Your skin is already fighting to hold onto water. Add acids that dissolve the glue between dead skin cells, and you’re basically asking your barrier to hold up with one hand tied behind its back. The result: more transepidermal water loss, stinging, and sensitivity than you’d get in a humid climate.

Mitigation is pretty straightforward. Cut your frequency way back — once a week instead of every other day. Use a lower concentration (5% lactic or 2% salicylic instead of the strong stuff). Always buffer: apply moisturizer first, then acid, or mix a drop into your lotion. And build your routine around barrier repair — ceramides, panthenol, squalane. Thick occlusives at night (Laneige, Cicaplast, straight Vaseline) are your friend.

Also, don’t use acids on days you’ll be outside for more than a few minutes. Wind + exfoliated skin = instant regret.

The colder and drier it is, the less your skin needs aggressive ex