Ignore the "sushi-grade" label.

The label is unregulated marketing — look for clear color, no fishy smell, and firm flesh instead.

Walk into most grocery stores and “sushi-grade” just means the fish was frozen to kill parasites, which is standard for any tuna meant to be eaten raw. But that says nothing about freshness or flavor. Your best bet is a trusted fishmonger who can tell you when it came in and how it was handled.

For bluefin or bigeye (the best for sashimi), the color should be deep ruby red to crimson — not brown or gray. The flesh should look translucent, never dull. Press a finger into it: it should spring back. Smell it: clean ocean, not fishy or metallic. If there’s any liquid pooling on the tray, pass.

A butcher counter that lets you smell and touch is worth driving across town for. If the fish is pre-packaged in plastic with a label, you’re gambling.

Cheap tuna for cooking? Fine. Cheap tuna for sashimi? Don’t.